During a weekend in June, an invitation lands in my inbox to explore the Limerick Greenway and surrounding areas - a chance I jump at.
Experiencing rural Ireland is magic in itself, and the Greenways dotted across the island offer a unique way to see this side of Ireland. I've been wanting to experience a Greenway for a while, and this particular route is built along the former Limerick to Tralee railway line that weaves through West Limerick’s landscape, linking the major towns of Rathkeale, Newcastle West, and Abbeyfeale.
Our base for the weekend is Abbeyfeale, a small market town in Co Limerick nestled close to the Co Kerry border. My partner and I are staying in Leens Hotel, located in the town center, and on our arrival on Friday evening, we settle in with an excellent dinner at the hotel restaurant.
The next day, we wander the town and meet the locals. On the Main St of Abbeyfeale, you will find the Coffee Pot, where owner Ann Curtin has been running the café for the past 24 years, providing the community with a place to gather and enjoy homemade comfort food.
Abbeyfeale, Co Limerick
“I was working in the local factory and saw a gap in the market for a coffee shop… my Father thought I was mad!” she laughs, taking a seat with us in one of the booths. Over lunch, she chats to us about how Abbeyfeale has changed over the years and tells us tales of beloved regulars. The café has even been part of a love story that blossomed between two customers; Ann proudly points to the wall at a framed wedding invitation from the now-married couple.
Further down the street is An Siopa Milséan [The Sweet Shop], a newer local venture in the town that opened four years ago, which immerses the classic sweet shop with a modern twist. Stacked on shelves are treats from across the eras, as well as An Siopa Milseán’s custom sweet bags. Look up higher and you’ll spot the old sweet boxes and tins on display that evoke a sense of nostalgia. While we’re there, the place is buzzing as they get ready for an after-hours music event in the shop.
An Siopa Milseán, Abbeyfeale
Speaking to owner Noreen Cotter, you can feel her sense of pride for Abbeyfeale and her wish to see the town flourish. Locals like Noreen are driven to enhance the town and are working toward the Abbeyfeale Town Centre First Plan, which is a community-led initiative focused on revitalizing the town center. The Abbeyfeale Road Scheme is also on the horizon, with a bypass being developed to relieve the level of traffic that passes through the town, and as Noreen says, will allow for a more positive promotion of the nearby Limerick Greenway.
The weekend we’re in Abbeyfeale also happens to coincide with the Con Curtin Music Festival in the nearby village of Brosna. This is our final stop for the day, and we settle into Kate Pats’ Bar to listen to a fiddle recital. The festival is held in honor of the famous traditional Irish musician who called the village his home, and the weekend is filled with concerts, music workshops, signing sessions, and busking competitions.
Con Curtin passed away in 2009 at the age of 82 and is one of the few musicians to have a music festival named after him while he was still alive, and became known as a “living legend”. The influence of the festival is prevalent as we watch the fiddle recital, with young and old gathering together, the skill and enjoyment of traditional Irish music being passed on to the next generation.
Mural dedicated to the Con Curtin Music Festival, Brosna
The following day, it's time for us to explore Limerick Greenway. We pick up our bikes at the Abbeyfeale entrance from Locomotion Bike Rental, run by husband and wife Eamonn Foley and Aoife Keogh, who offer a range of inclusive bikes for adults, children, and those with additional needs.
Eamonn gives us a run-through of our electric bikes, and we head on the pathway towards Barnagh. Within moments, we’re surrounded by every shade of green, views of endless rolling hills, and the feeling of peace that comes with being out in nature. We pass through Tullig Wood, and along the way, there are picnic benches and signposts with the kilometers between each stop. The Greenway is designed for every pace and ability, and we share “hi, how are yeah” with fellow cyclists, parents encouraging small children as they take their first wobbly push of the pedals, and Sunday morning dog walkers taking a stroll.
We eventually take a turn and cycle under the impressively restored 19th-century Barnagh Tunnel. On the other side, we arrive at the Barnagh Greenway Hub for a pitstop and push our bikes up a winding, sloped garden path. At the top, we’re greeted by the expanse of the Greenway Hub, and it's a hive of activity with a children’s playground, bike rental, pottery studio, crazy golf, and Platform 22 café.
Barnagh Tunnel on the Limerick Greenway
Overseeing this small empire is Olive Sheehan, who took over the premises from her father and has been adding and developing the place since then -“I do nothing in small measures!” She hoped to build a spot that generations of families can enjoy, and the space has now become a community space for both visitors to the Greenway and locals.
This point in the journey offers the perfect amount of time for a day out, but if you’re looking for more adventure, you can head on further in the direction of Newcastle West, Limerick's largest town, lying at the heart of Munster’s great Golden Vale.
We wrap up our time at Barnagh with one of the café’s homemade scones on the balcony overlooking the views before taking on the ultimate challenge of the day - a game of crazy golf!
* This press trip was kindly organized by Limerick Greenway and Springboard Communications. You can find out more information about Limerick Greenway here.
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