How to spend 72 hours in Galway City

Galway has a habit of getting under your skin. Give it 72 hours, and you will understand why so many visitors "just stay for a pint" and end up staying for a lifetime.

Day one

Start where Galway starts, at the Spanish Arch. This 16th-century gateway once welcomed ships loaded with wine and spices, and today it welcomes tourists loaded with cameras. Wander along the Long Walk for postcard views of the pastel houses lining the water, then pop into the Galway City Museum next door for a crash course in the city's seafaring past.

Spanish Arch, Galway City.

Head straight for Shop Street, the pedestrian artery that pumps life through the city center. Buskers, street performers, and the occasional bagpiper compete for your attention between boutique shops and traditional pubs. Grab lunch at Ard Bia at Nimmo's, a converted harbor master's house serving up seasonal Irish cooking with a view of the River Corrib.

Shop Street, Galway City.

No visit to Galway is complete without a night of trad music, and Tigh Neachtain's on Cross Street is the spot to find it. The pub's cozy snugs and low ceilings make it feel like you have wandered into someone's living room, if that someone happened to keep a very well-stocked bar. Follow it up with dinner at Kai, a relaxed but ambitious restaurant that has quietly become one of the best tables in the west of Ireland.

Tigh Neachtain's, Galway City.

Day two

Rise early and drive out to Connemara, roughly 40 minutes from the city center, for a dose of the wild Atlantic scenery Ireland is famous for. Kylemore Abbey, tucked beneath the Twelve Bens mountains, is worth the trip for its lakeside setting alone. The neo-Gothic church and Victorian walled garden give the whole visit a fairy-tale quality.

Kylemore Abbey.

On the way back into town, stop in the village of Oughterard for a walk along the shores of Lough Corrib. If the weather cooperates, and in Galway, that is always a big if, this is prime picnic territory. Back in the city, treat yourself to a warm scone and coffee at Cupán Tae, a cheerful little tearoom that leans hard into cottagecore charm.

Outside Oughterard.

Dinner tonight belongs at Loam, where chef Enda McEvoy turns foraged and local ingredients into some of the most inventive plates in Ireland. Reservations are essential, so book ahead. Afterward, wind down with a nightcap at the Dail Bar, a favorite with locals for its laid-back atmosphere and enormous whiskey selection.

Loam, Galway.

Day three

Devote your final morning to the Aran Islands, a short ferry ride from Rossaveal or a scenic drive and boat combo from the city. Inis Mor, the largest of the three islands, is home to the dramatic clifftop fort of Dun Aonghasa, which perches 300 feet above the crashing Atlantic. Rent a bike at the pier and cycle the island's stone-walled lanes for the full effect.

Inis Mor, one of the Aran Islands, off Galway.

Catch the ferry back to the mainland and grab a late lunch at Moran's Oyster Cottage in nearby Kilcolgan, a thatched-roof institution that has been shucking oysters since the 1700s. It is a short drive from Galway city, but well worth the detour for seafood lovers. Wash it all down with a pint of Guinness, because at this point you have more than earned it.

Moran's Oyster Cottage, in Kilcolgan.

Spend your last night the way Galway intended, wandering from pub to pub with no particular plan. The Crane Bar is a solid starting point for more traditional music, while Monroe's Tavern down the street often has set dancing to go along with the tunes. Grab a late bite at McDonagh's, the legendary fish and chip shop that has been feeding hungry Galwegians for generations, and toast your 72 hours well spent.

Three days in Galway will not be enough, but it will be a start. Pack an umbrella, bring your appetite, and let the city do the rest.