John Rocha pictured with musician Roisin Murphy

Irish fashion designer John Rocha confounded trend-spotters yet again by sticking to his monochrome form on Sunday with a collection that embraced high style but with a rakish modern edge.

Rocha's new collection rocked London's 25 fashion week, making good use of his trademark handwork and embroidery details. Corsetry in playsuits or in tailored jackets was restrained and elegant and notable throughout the collection were the flamboyant tulle and silk floppy hats made by the designer himself.

New trends in Rocha's collection included the introduction of corsetry and vintage bias. A sweeping black bustier dress was dressed down under a long open-back cardigan. Town coats had stiff, puckered backs while a narrow cropped pants suit looked sharp and modern.