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Home Page > Blogs > News blogs > Periscope > Checking out Westport, winner of Ireland’s best place to live - Exploring why Mayo town won The Irish Times' coveted award

Periscope by Niall O'Dowd

Checking out Westport, winner of Ireland’s best place to live - Exploring why Mayo town won The Irish Times' coveted award

Posted on Saturday, June 30, 2012 at 08:19 AM

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The Mayo town of Westport lies hard by the Atlantic Ocean almost as far westward as you can go, next stop America.

It was recently voted Ireland’s best place to live after a fierce competition in which Irish Times judges visited hundreds of spots around Ireland to compare to each other.

What is fascinating is how little dispute there was that Westport had won.

Beauty spots like Killarney and Dingle, hip urban enclaves like Rathmines in Dublin and many other long revered locations never seemed to come close.

I had never been to Westport, though my brother-in-law hails from there, as you almost have to be going there specifically, as against a spot you may pass through.

On a recent visit I decided to check out what all the fuss was about. The Irish Times criteria was not just beauty, but also community spirit and drive, affordability, good dining, cleanliness etc.

What I saw in Westport was lots of all those features.

At first glance the town has a San Francisco feel, with the houses and businesses located among several fairly steep and picturesque hills.

The riot of color and different paint hues is immediately apparent. Far too many Irish towns are dull and grey with little attempt to spice them up.

Westport is the very opposite, a kaleidoscope of different hues of colors that set off against the summer sky and give the impression of a little Shangri-la.

One of my immediate tests of how good any town is to check out the number of bookstores, which I believe sends its own message about culture and access in a town.

Westport certainly measures up, and books focused on local knowledge and topics certainly abound.

In one small store we found old editions of the works of Dylan Thomas and Jonathan Swift, both incredibly well-priced. It was a good omen.

The main streets might remind American visitors of The Hamptons in New York with lots of upscale little stores selling baubles and antiques of all descriptions -- a browser’s delight.

The people staffing the stores were universally friendly and keen to chat, giving that west of Ireland propensity to accept the proverb that when God made time he made plenty of it.

An old town clock, a winding river, a feeling of a close-knit community going about its business makes Westport feel special.

Matt Molloy’s pub in the centre of Westport is a well-known landmark. Owned by the famed Chieftains musician, it has a wonderful old feel to it, an authentic Irish pub in a world full of poor imitations. Though we visited during the day there were several present and a music session was promised for that night.

We stopped in a local bar/ restaurant where the seafood chowder had just won an international award and the smoked salmon and brown bread was to die for. If it is seafood you want, Westport certainly has it.

We took a drive out the coast road toward Louisburg with the mighty Atlantic to our right and the small villages that dot this part of Mayo to our left. In the distance the small islands that dot the coastline were visible on a clear summer day. It was an uplifting and scenic drive.

Two points of negative note. The traffic jam in the town on the way back in was of epic proportions, and looking at the price of property it is clear that living in this little paradise doesn’t come cheap even with Ireland’s property collapse.

After a day spent there it looked to me like the Irish Times jury picked wisely. Well worth a visit if you get the opportunity.

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TommyMaguire | Oct 25, 2012, 10:30 PM EDT

How about Tramore. It has a great coastline around the area

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rahogan | Jul 03, 2012, 08:24 AM EDT

Westport has always been one of our favorite places to go. We just spent a lovely few days there at the end of May. Stayed at the Hotel Westport (which we HIGHLY) recommend. Matt Malloy's is always fun. But it is just a nice town. Coffee at a table on the street and delightful conversations with folks as the share a table next to you or pass by is one of the best experiences.

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hunter1339 | Jul 02, 2012, 04:25 PM EDT

I have had the pleasure of spending a week in Westport visiting my wife Kathleen's cousins Mary and Bernie. I have been around the world a couple of times having spent 21 years in the US Marine Corps, and I have to say Ireland is the place I would like to move to and retire. I didn't know it could get better until I spent time in Westport, The people and the atmosphere there is fantastic. I remember talking fishing with a store owner and how fishing in Ireland and the US are very similar. But most of all it reminded me of the movie Brigadoon which appeared three days every hundred years. Westport is truly special.

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ballyhip | Jul 02, 2012, 11:32 AM EDT

"Almost have to go there specifically"? Well, ya, that's why they have train service from Dublin. Can't say that about most Irish towns. Mother et al are from Louisburg down the coast as described. Westport was a "planned" town which accounts for its look as opposed to some of the market centered villages of Ireland. Forget the name of the architect but you can look it up. Westport Hse was in trouble a few yrs. ago to the point where they started a mini-theme park on the grounds with Pinky, the Rabbit. So go the Anglo-Irish. Grandfather was the river keeper for Lord Sligo on the Bunowen River. Salmon/sea trout pool named after him.

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Bythebay | Jul 02, 2012, 10:43 AM EDT

O'Dowd acts like he's never been in Ireland let alone never been in Westport.

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Frosty38 | Jul 01, 2012, 09:41 PM EDT

Why do you think she should be there what was her purpose of the visit. I have been to ireland 7 times and never made it. I would love to see the Shrine but the bus does not go direct

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edmundburke | Jul 01, 2012, 06:07 PM EDT

Very surprised O'Dowd had never been to Westport -- it is one of the most notable holiday towns in the West. It is a wonderful place, and my Mayo family has been hosting family reunions there since 1997. Must agree with all the positive notes covered by O'Dowd and IT. Last year, the Green Way was opened allowing unmolested biking and hiking from Westport through to Achill Island. Surprised O'Dowd didn't mention Croagh Patrick, right on the fringe of town, one of Ireland's most notable pilgrimage sites, and Westport House, one of the country's preserved and accessible "Big Houses". Some negatives on Westport: 1. The place is a zoo in high summer season, overcome by crowds of tourists and holiday visitors. 2. During the same times, traffic in town centre is abysmal. 3. Westport House really needs some renovation -- some of its grand rooms recently appeared a bit worn and dusty. 4. I am sure the comment on real estate prices is correct; mirrors the higher prices for dining and hotels in season. All that said, with all the activities, sights, and amenities either in town or within short drives, Westport would be a great place to live.

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mamaginnty | Jul 01, 2012, 08:44 AM EDT

That sounds just like my own village in Co Kilkenny, but we have the beautiful river Barrow running along side it, great fishing. Lots of little villages along the east that are never mentioned in tour books. Stay off the motorways and follow your nose is the best way to see Ireland. The places in tourist guide books usually cost a fortune, and the Irish themselves would not bother going to them, we have beauty on our own doorsteps as they say.

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tundish45 | Jul 01, 2012, 01:55 AM EDT

On the recommendation of our trad music daughter and son-in-law, my wife and I rented a Westport apartment as our base for a week in the West. So we got to know a bit of the town and the area a day's drive in all directions. It was all good.

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RedBranch | Jun 30, 2012, 06:14 PM EDT

Westport = Galway center minus 15 years.

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PatriciaMarya | Jun 30, 2012, 02:21 PM EDT

I can't believe it! I was there in February of 2010 and since I used to live in Aspen, I told my friend that this was the place for me! She bought a cottage in the boonies, but I am a NYC girl and need to be around people and able to walk to the market, etc. I met Pat the Greengrocer at his great fruit and vegetable market and we hit it off immediately! I bought my souvenirs at the Visitors Center because I wanted to support the town. Got to hear Clive Barnes at this great pub on Sat. 2/13, visited Rockcliff on Valentine's Day and I found a heart-shaped rock at my feet...the whole place felt like home to me. I very quickly gave Dublin a New York City vibe and gave Galway to San Francisco...seems I was not far off. But, having lived in Aspen in the mid 60s to the end of the 70s, I know that I can't afford that little apartment over a shop! Loved the Post Office, the river through the center of town. Miss it to this day. Everywhere I went, people stopped to chat with me and I felt as though I had always lived there. Here's to Westport deserving this title!

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boydshield | Jun 30, 2012, 12:40 PM EDT

Niall, I visited Westport in 2007 and found it lovely. The friendliness of the people, the small town charm, the food, everything was great. Do wish you'd do more pictures with these articles. One does not do it justice.

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like2tweet | Jun 30, 2012, 11:36 AM EDT

sounds beautiful looking forward to visit

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pilib04 | Jun 30, 2012, 10:53 AM EDT

Westport property is some of the most expensive in Ireland. Nearby farmland is scandalous.

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