The West's Awake


The West's Awake by Cormac MacConnell

In rural Ireland we love too see our Irish Yanks coming -- Admiration and respect for Irish Americans is total

Posted on Saturday, April 14, 2012 at 08:28 AM

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We love our Irish Yanks - admiration and respect for emigrants

There has been a lot of discussion around the place recently on the subject of what the Irish in Ireland think about Irish Americans, and I've read some strong views being expressed on both flanks of the debate and on both shores of the Atlantic. 

We keep hearing that there are something like 40 million Americans with Irish blood in them.  That, for sure, is an impressive tally to have been contributed to the New World by such a small island as ourselves.

We, and you too, have been both busy and fertile down all the long decades of emigration. The modern fact is that ye now outnumber us on a scale of about 10 to one, and that is mindboggling.

I feel that many of the opinions I've heard expressed thus far are wide of the real mark. Few of them reflect the deep clan respect which the overwhelming majority of the stay at home Irish have for their families and friends in the United States especially.

There is a deep, strong, warm bond there, and there always has been throughout my lifetime. We admire and respect what our emigrants achieved down the years despite all the odds in a tougher and more competitive society than the one they had to leave behind.

My memory goes back to the fifties as an Ulster child, and I can say that the arrival home of the summertime "Yanks" was always an occasion of celebration and pride among not just the extended clan, but also the entire local community.

We never said "Irish Americans" as a matter of interest. The incoming flank of the family were always affectionately known as Yanks.

That was not connected at all to the Civil War labels or to the resident state of our relatives. They were simply Yanks, and we were delighted to welcome them home with open arms.


The modern homecomings are slightly different in that it is relatively easy to fly home quite frequently, and even for us to visit quite often. The families are in closer communication all the time in the majority of cases. 

But when I was a child the older folk could tell so many tales of Johnny and Mary leaving Cobh or Belfast in their teens and never ever being able to return.  It was not easy then.

For that very reason it was an occasion for celebration when the American clansmen and women did make it home for what was invariably a rattling good party.

I've celebrated with homecoming Yanks in all four provinces at this stage of my life. A significant factor in the warmth of the Cead Mile Failte actually goes back to that bloody Famine. 

Think about it. The heaviest waves of emigration came from the impoverished communities on the poorest lands, many of these located in the rugged counties along the west coast from Donegal all the way down to Kerry and West Cork.

In these lands the sense of community was always stronger than in many other areas. The people of the west are still very strongly bonded by a common pride in their family, community, parish and county.

When one of their own does well in life everybody is proud of them. They survived and thrived.

And my experience is that they are as proud of their own Yanks as they are of the clansman who started up some successful project in the nearest town.  Maybe even more proud because the initial emigrants had to fight such a tough battle against deep-rooted prejudices and disadvantages. 

All those legendary American letters both ways across the sea have left a deep knowledge of what Johnny and Mary had to survive in the homeland folklore.

There is also a poignant undercurrent of folklore about those who did not get the breaks and fell by the wayside. There are countrymen still today who never visited the U.S., but who know neighbors, maybe even family members who perished, as they say, in that place called Hell's Kitchen

So, in a single sentence, our Yanks, all Yanks, are highly regarded when they come back home to us.
We are proud of you. Very proud.

Ye are different from us in many ways. I think ye are often surprised that we have changed a lot too, as has our society, but fundamentally we are equal members of the one big zany family, and it is good to get together again.

One reality about the homecomings used hurt me when I was young, but thankfully it has disappeared now. It was a profound enough reality back then.

When Johnny emigrated, for example, a part of the family background was that his older brother Seamus inherited the farm.  Back then the farm normally went to the oldest son as long as he was interested. So Johnny emigrated and Seamus worked the land.

Normally in the west that land was not rich, and the manual work was harder than hard all day and every day. The contrast between Johnny, on his return home, and Seamus was often exceptionally cruel.

Seamus might have been only a couple of years the senior, but he so often looked old enough and stiff enough to be Johnny's father.  Seamus, whatever he did in the states, always seemed to look tanned and fit, light on his nimble feet, brightly and boldly dressed.

The contrast was often a savage reflection on the different lifestyles, maybe the drier climate, probably a higher standard of living. Thankfully you don't see that anymore.  I'm glad about that above all.

There is something bone-deep in about all of us, and that is the special warm feeling you experience in your chest when you are truly in the midst of a gathering of your own flesh and blood.

I can assure those of you who have not yet had that experience in Ireland that it is still strongly here.

It is worth getting the taste of it.




87 Comments

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What's the matter, the Yanks finally fed up with the anti-Americanism and contempt from begging bowl Ireland? You all love our money, and have viewed as for too long as something to leech off. I've read enough of your hateful Irish people believing they have the right to come to the US and leech off our welfare system. This woman once proud of her Irish ancestry, now is ashamed of Ireland and disgusted by it's parasitical people.
An odd phenomena is the return for a war. My Grandfather stopped home (Cavan) on his way to France. My uncles stopped in Co. Clare on their way to France. I stopped in on my way back from Vietnam. On one occassion my Great grndmother was heard to say "'tis strange, indeed, to get to France by way of a Boston road"
densonone - agreed, but the 3rd option is stay in a larger place and use local public transport...the main thing is to get oveer and enjoy the experience...
To DayOLoinsigh, the "wrong side of the road" works for Americans in Ireland as well, including finding myself driving on what really was the wrong side. But visiting Ireland by car instead of a tour bus and interacting with local folks instead of a group of other Americans is well worth the challenge. To Cormac MacConnell, thank you so much for this article. I'm American by birth, but think of myself as Irish-American. (And for those Americans who don't like hyphens, it's the hyphens that give us our cultural diversity.) I can only imagine how hard it was for my great-grandmother to endure the loss of her sons to America under less than ideal circumatances and how hard it was for my grandfather to reinvent himself in a new place that wasn't always kind. But he endured, and passed on that incredible tenacity to survive to my father and I hope to me.
Johnshiel - You're very welcome..one thing that increased my stress factor on visits to the US was driving on the other side - once or twice, esp on right hand turns, I ended up in the wrong lane...on my last visit I didn't hire a car...a bit restricting, but again, made life easier overall...I think many Irish roads would be a challenge for visitors...alternately, only take a car for part of the time...
dano'l - your counsel re staying put for great Ireland visits is sound and welcome. and well timed. I've been thinking the same thing, but had to get the frenetic looking about done with. I hereby resolve that i'll TRY next visit to motor down... WAY down...
ciaradexy | Apr 18, 2012, 12:32 PM EDT>>>>>>>>>>>> I'LL BE IGNORING ALL YOUR COMMENTS FROM NOW ON... ONE WORD FOR YOU = FREAK !!!!!!!!!!
@@@IrelandNorth | Apr 17, 2012, 08:06 AM EDT>>>>>>>>>YOUR AMERICAN BE HAPPY TO BE AMERICAN IM IRISH THEN EUROPEAN IM HAPPY AND PROUD OF THAT!! IRELAND IS NOT PART OF AMERICA SO PLEASE LESS OF YOUR ARROGANCE..
There is something about Ireland that I have found nowhere else. I was always a sun & water loving, beach hanging person. Never leaving Richmond VA to go north or east for vacation. Only south and west.... UNTIL IRELAND. I can't describe it. The feeling when I got out into the West of Ireland. The villages, towns, hillsides and people. I honestly felt like my soul was home, I felt free and alive. no beaches, little sun, but the very air, grass & trees were welcoming. You have a little bit of paradise there (which always comes with some issues...) I have this compelling need to come back to Ireland every 3-5 years now. Its coming up close. I think the angels sleep there at night!
johnshiel – in my opinion vacation strategies can make or break a trip…personally I prefer to base myself at one or two locations over a fortnight…one of the best places to pick up the feel for a place is sat in the local pub, the more one visits specific venues, the more the locals will open up…so I would resist the temptation to open lots of choccy boxes, and only sampling one or two flavours…better to have less boxes, and eat all or most of the contents…go West, any place north of Galway Bay, and enjoy the full Irish….
BrianO, you hit the nail on the head. There are variations in every single country you go to. Most countries are tourist destinations but more importantly, they are countries where people live, work and raise their families. Funnily enough, Ive met 3 Americans in the past 4 weeks. 2 from Nashville who I spent nearly 2 weeks with. Both were exactly the sort of tourists that every country needs. They were fun, open, honest, interested in Ireland, friendly and no preconceived notions. My friends and some of my family met them and enjoyed hanging out with them too. last weekend I was hosting a walking tour of Dublin for 43 Italian students and 1 kid from Arizona. He had said that being in Ireland and Europe had opened his eyes. he said he doesnt want to go home because he loves how Europe is so open. He loved how we arent ruled by religion and how he loved the mix of nationalities and cultures. More of this type of tourist please instead of the fools who wont eat in a restaurant cos theres a Polish waitress! I love working with tourists by the way. Ive never had a complaint and I have had lots of compliments given to my boss which is brilliant!
Ciaradexy, The differences of American culture varies by region, There are loud obnoxious people, there are quiet calm people and everything in between. NYC is very different than a Maine farm, I know you know this. It happens on both sides of the Atlantic. My wife and I had to put up with the political opinions of our Irish table mates at a wedding recently, since it was a wedding we avoided the conversation, we talked about weather, the bride, the food, but these Irish liberal elitist just kept hammering their agenda at us. Were these "Ugly Irish" or just people you have to put up with? In this conversation we stay polite, until finally they were interested in my wife's profession. Since we were trapped at this table it would be easy to say-those Irish are such--, Since Ireland is a tourism destination, people are sold by the tourism office, and as in any tourist destination it can be hard to put up with tourist. But being from a tourist region of the U.S., I have had some of the best times assisting tourist, Lots of laughs, and you actually feel better, next time you run into an American that doesn't understand the differences in cultures try telling him what he should do.
IrelandNorth, I travel the length of this country every week unlike yourself who left 30 years ago! get out of your time warp man, youre pathetic!
Steven, I AM stalking you! I work in healthcare and retards are of interest to me so youre a case in point.
ever heard the term "ugly american"? unfortunatly they do exist. having been a Marine in the 80's in many ports in the mediterranean there were ugly americans everywhere, but they were in places that expected that behaviour. and they exist on a smaller scale elsewhere, i saw it personally in killarney when a member of my tourist group snapped at a lady serving him breakfast. i was embarrassed, i would bet you that woman probably interacted with 15-20 americans that day, but she will remember the guy who was stupid to her. thats more human nature to me than nationality.




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