Endless supply of the glory days of summer
By: Cormac MacConnell | Published Wednesday, July 7, 2010, 12:10 PM | Updated Friday, September 9, 2011, 9:44 PM
More meanderings because the summer has been glorious, glorious, glorious thus far, and I have not sat down in the big armchair in the corner for more than two or three hours at a time since May. My God, but it has been fabulous!
The longest time I've been indoors was watching with glee the stumbles and rumbles and departure of
England from the
World Cup. They were so jingoistic and cocky and assured in the buildup that, quite apart from our history, they bring that kind of reaction down on top of their own heads.
America departs from the scene with honor and respect, and the Dutch Nation is out of her mind with excitement as
the Netherlands emerge among the favorites for the latter stages of the marathon tournament. But watch
Germany closely!
I'm away up North in the sunshine. Remarkably, as the sun sizzles all day over a tanned economy which is still officially in the red, I end up right on the border in the Black!
That is the local name for the Cavan village of Blacklion, on the Fermanagh border, and in truth there is no sign of recession at all because they are enjoying their annual summer carnival and festival in honor of Cathal Bui. Don't ask me who he was please, but he is well remembered and honored.
There is a singsong which begins with a formal concert in the Community Center and then descends the hill into the bars. There is music and song and dance and drink in all or any order into the wee small hours, and then there is a party in every second house.
What is a recession? No sign of it in the Black anyway.
Furthermore, I notice that the original Ballroom of Romance in tiny Glenfarne down the road is still dancing away through the summer. It has to be one of the last ballrooms left in the country.
The flamboyant proprietor, the late John McGivern, staged a romantic interlude here at every dance, singing "Have You Ever Been Lonely?" over the dancing heads of shy country boys and girls and encouraging them to exchange names and maybe even a peck on the cheek on the dance floor.
Those many of you from Leitrim over there should know that you might not be in this world at all were it not for John McGivern. He created hundreds of marriages in this region through those romantic interludes.
The hedges around Glenfarne carry wiry bouquets of wild pink roses, and they are still dancing away this summer of 2010. This area is the
Killarney of the North, and you should try to visit it and see glittering Glencar waterfall between Manorhamilton and Sligo if you are in
Ireland anytime soon.
I'm on the road to Cavan town next afternoon to watch our Fermanagh footballers take on Monaghan in the Ulster Championships. I pick a route that takes me past the place where I was born in the townland of Toneyloman.
I stop in Arney briefly to whisper a prayer for Sandy and Mary and sister Maura in the graveyard. The sun is shining, the birds are singing, the chapel is redolent of old incense.
I sense peace and rest rather than anything else and shed just two or three tears. Life is like that.
There have been major roadworks and changes in the home townland. My birth house has been replaced by a new bungalow, the road flattened to remove a hill on which we played as children. I have passed by before I fully realize where I am.
All has changed, changed utterly. Life, as I say, is like that.
Monaghan hammer us in the football. It is a bad hammering but it is easier to take than if it was from Tyrone or Cavan, the other neighbors.
Neither of us are going to win the All-Ireland come September, you see, and we are close neighbors without much friction.
Coming back walking from Breffni Park there is a family in front of me, parents and a four-year-old son riding on his father's broad shoulders. The mother wears a Monaghan jersey, so does the little boy, while the father is in the green of Fermanagh.
"What will we do now?" I ask him as I pass.
"There is Plan B," is what he says.
We now, you see, go into the qualifiers, what they call the back door. (Later in the evening we draw powerful Armagh in those qualifiers. There will not be a long road after that.)
I have a piece to write about the game. There is an Internet kiosk in the Farnham Hotel and I effortlessly dispatch it from there.
How times have changed. In my cub reporter days in Cavan you would be winding the handle of a phone to call the
Dublin office and laboriously speak every word over to a copytaker in Burgh Quay. It could take hours and hours. I'm done and dusted in about 50 minutes from start to finish.
Droning through Mayo on the way home, I'm entertained by the radio fallout from the heave against opposition leader
Enda Kenny in the ranks of
Fine Gael. Divers voices from all sides of the political divide are babbling.
The apparently gentle and youthful-looking Kenny easily defeated his dissidents, routing them by a series of moves worthy of Napoleon on a bloody battlefield.
As I passed by the miracle town of Knock, spired against a clear sky, I reflected that when it comes to politics it is extremely difficult to outsmart any Mayo politician of any party. They are mighty at it.
They can work miracles. They have iron hands in velvet gloves.
Kenny is likely now to be the next taoiseach (prime minister), and that could happen soon enough. Maybe before Christmas.
When I reach home I have time for one pint in the Honk before heading tiredly home. I am mercilessly attacked of course because of the Fermanagh disaster, but I'm not alone.
Neighbor Sean is a Dubliner, and Dublin collapsed against Meath and conceded five goals in a worse slaughter than ours. He got the worst of it. We smoked together in the porch before heading home.
Tomorrow, we agreed, would be another good day anyway.
It is that kind of summer. I'm off to Kerry tomorrow...
5 Comments
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Switch to the desktop site to post a comment.jacersisityourself | Jul 09, 2010, 06:52 PM EDT
Yeah, shure, Cormac has been enjoying the wonderful weather we’ve had in Ireland over the last unforgettable sunny weeks. And the Black too! Cormac might want to lift his hand away from the black or his dog’s annual anointment from Galway. Then he might find a way to hold back the tears over the changes around his lost home and child's hill. We all know what the dog’s anointment can do to a human being, especially when that human being is an exquisite writer. Ah, but to be shure, ye can’t put a Borderman down. Tears or no tears, carry on Cormac, carry on with your delightful dribbles of memories – further glory awaits you and it won’t be in – er, what’s the name of that place again? Sounds like Kevin... No! It’s Heaven! Ah! - Reader’s Heaven! That’s it. Thanks again for another wonderful read. The read of your Kerry adventures beckons...
Hawaiibobbee | Jul 09, 2010, 04:15 PM EDT
Love this column!
carrickcourt | Jul 09, 2010, 11:27 AM EDT
Love the hills and lakes (loughs) of Co. Cavan. Of course part of my ancestry is from the Bailieborough area of Co. Cavan. Have never been in person to any Irish sport games, just watched a bit on TV. Remember staying at B & B on the border of Co. Cavan and Co. Meath where the owners displayed their Co. Meath flag with pride.
Tommy Tourguide | Jul 09, 2010, 10:49 AM EDT
Thanks again, Cormac, for the charming report. It reminds me of the first trip I took to Ireland in 1980 -- five weeks of sun and hiking the backroads through North Longford, Sligo and down to Dingle and Killarney. When I returned to Berkeley with a rich tan, nobody could believe I'd been to Ireland. I admit, there were two drizzly days during the five weeks, but I prefer to remember all the sun and flowers. Life is like that!
battychief | Jul 07, 2010, 02:45 PM EDT
I love Cormac's writing. I have been reading him ( and his book) for many years, and have just re-discovered him. He was the only reason I took some of the Irish American newspapers. Keep up the great work, Cormac!