25 years and a recession can take a toll

Posted on Friday, July 23, 2010 at 05:49 PM

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I was on the DART - Dublin Area Rapid Transit - last week when I thought it was sad sign of how bad things have gotten here. I don't ride the train all that often, but I was shocked by the state of the train I was on: broken seats, graffiti and filth. I've seen one of those on a DART train before, but this was the first time all three seemed to be riding so comfortably together.

It was a far cry from my first ride on the DART back in 1985. Back then it was brand new and I, a student from New York, couldn't get over the difference between the DART and the broken down, graffiti-covered, filthy Subway. And even though the DART showed signs of age it never looked neglected. Until now.

On Friday evening I headed back into Dublin, but this time on the Luas - Dublin's light rail system - with my family. What a difference. The Luas is today what the DART was back in the mid 1980s. At least, I hope so because I saw the Luas as a sign that things would get better, that there is hope still. I felt a bit better after the Luas journey.

Later on Friday, we ate at Captain America's, which is older than the DART, but shows no signs of neglect. I've only been there twice before: in 1973 and during my student days during the mid 1980s.

Yup, 1973. We traveled to Ireland to visit my mother's family. A few weeks on the family farm in County Kildare. Great time.

One day during my stay my aunt took me into Dublin to see the sights. We finished with a burger at Captain America's. One of those great childhood memories, which probably explains why I've returned so rarely - didn't want to spoil the memory of that day.

Well, on Friday a spur of the moment decision found me back in Captain America's. I'm sure it's changed since the early 70s, but it wasn't much different than I'd remembered. And, I was surprised at how much I enjoyed the experience.

The food was better than most places that serve a similar menu and the rock-n-roll memorabilia is great. Despite the name, I think Captain America's has a genuinely Dublin feel, unlike a similarly themed near-by restaurant that is part of a vast international chain.

Next time you're in Dublin ride the Luas and the DART - still has great views - and then go to Captain America's for a bite and skip the Hard Rock Café.

{Top picture is me behind a DART train (clears throat and mutters - inaudible) ** years ago.}

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manofaran | Aug 08, 2010, 03:04 PM EDT

Have not been in Captain America's but I enjoy riding the Dart when ever Im at home.

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jacersisityourself | Jul 24, 2010, 09:12 PM EDT

Well said ajreaper. I find it disappointing that John has written an article on ICentral highlighting rubbish on the DART carriages. Sure I have rubbish in my bin and nobody can go anywhere, anywhere in the world in fact, without seeing graffiti these days. I wish John hadn’t mentioned Captain America’s though. I used to be a regular there for a meal or snack in my younger days. I love fresh salads and Capt A’s salads were always the best for me - until one day, they were so fresh that a full-blown garden snail, with horns ablaze, appeared crawling under a leaf of salad on my plate, creeping ever so slowly towards my burger. I and my fellow diners were dumbstruck, not believing what we were seeing. Once the restaurant’s manager's attention was drawn to the live creepy crawly, our party of diners didn’t have to pay for the meal. But I’ve never been back there since (honest!). In fact, I can’t ever pass Capt A’s without being reminded. That’s not to say you shouldn’t dine at Capt A’s, it is a good restaurant, great food and atmosphere. Just for me it won’t ever work again. (Yes, aj, it’s the one near the top of Grafton St, on the LHS going up the street, you can see St. Stephan’s Green gates from outside of it). Every time I walk past Capt A’s now, seeing that roundel sign over the door saying ‘Captain America’s’, I see instead ‘Captain Snail’. Despite this experience, I should tell you that, when in Paris, I’m an avid fan of eating French Snails.

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Monsoonman | Jul 24, 2010, 08:44 PM EDT

Then GeorgeDavis you must think that if a tourist on a bus witnessed what you did, then he would consider Ireland to be the kind of nation you could call a urination.

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Ajreaper | Jul 24, 2010, 06:39 PM EDT

Dirty Irish? 2 folks do clearly disgusting things and the Irish are a dirty people? There's a real application of statistics for you. Yank is Captain America's toward the end of Grafton street near an entrance to St Stephens green? Maybe I am confusing it with another establishment but I seem to recall walking past it on Grafton shortly before the entrance to St Stephens Green.

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GeorgeDavis | Jul 24, 2010, 10:32 AM EDT

If you've lived all those years in ireland, it's weird that you are surprised by how dirty it is. The Irish are a very untidy, even dirty people. Check out the rural roads full of garbage, or the city streets full of chewing gum. I remember my first encounter with the dirty Irish was maybe 20 years ago. A young guy spat on the floor of a shopping mall (St Stephen Green). I was outraged--bad enough to spit on the street, but to spit INSIDE a public building. I said something to him and his reply was the stream of curses that you hear everywhere in Ireland. On another occasion I was sitting at the back of a bus (those intercity ones) when a guy came to the back where there was a stairwell, went down a step or two, gestured to me to keep his secret, and urinated! Unfortunately for him I didn't keep his secret. I went to the front and complained to the driver, and to give him due credit the driver threw the urinator off the bus. I could write all day about the dirty Irish, that's why I wonder does our Yank really live over there, because if he did he wouldn't be surprised by anything.

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dearbhla | Jul 23, 2010, 08:31 PM EDT

you could have fooled me John, you haven't changed a bit!

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