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Travel writer recalls 17th century Ireland as bleak place where ignorant men ate soap

Fynes Moryson offers vivid and questionable account in ‘The Description of Ireland’


A sketch of Ireland during the Famine
A sketch of Ireland during the Famine
Photo by Washingtonhistory.org

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Born in Lincolnshire in 1566, Fynes Moryson was a travel writer. The Cambridge graduate wrote “An Itinerary” comprised of 12 years of travel through Europe from 1590, including England, Scotland, and Ireland. 

He wrote the book in Latin but later he translated it into English: containing his “Ten Yeeres Travell through the Twelve Dominions of Germany, Bohmerland, Sweitzerland, Netherland, Denmarke, Poland, Italy, Turky, France, England, Scotland, and Ireland.”

According to Library Ireland the The Irish portion of his Itinerary, which spanned the years 1599- 1603, was published separately in 2 vols. at Dublin, in 1735.

His work included invaluable notes on the conditions and living habits if the locals in the countries he visited.

Describing the terrain his Ireland he stated…
“The land of Ireland is uneven, mountainous, soft, watery, woody, and open to winds and floods of rain, and so fenny as it hath bogs on the very tops of mountains, not bearing man or beast, but dangerous to pass, and such bogs are frequent over all Ireland.”

On the caliber of Irish earls…
“The lords, or rather chiefs of countries (for most of them are not lords from any grants of our kings, which English titles indeed they despise), prefix O or Mac before their names in token of greatness, being absolute tyrants over their people, themselves eating upon them and making them feed their kern, or footmen, and their horsemen.  Also they, and gentlemen under them, before their names put nicknames, given them from the colour of their hair, from lameness, stuttering, diseases, or villainous inclinations, which they disdain not, being otherwise most impatient of reproach, though indeed they take it rather for a grace to be reputed active in any villainy, especially cruelty and theft.”

Read more: Will New Jersey Hall of Fame induct Thomas Nast, a racist and anti-Irish Catholic?

On the ignorance of the people…

“It is strange and ridiculous, but most true, that some of our Carriage Horses falling into their hands, when they found Soap and Starch, carried for the use of our laundresses, they thinking them to be some dainty meats, did eat them greedily, and when they suck in their teeth, cursed bitterly the Gluttony of us English Churls, for so they term us.”

On the Irish drinking habits…
“The usquebagh (Irish whiskey) is preferred before our aqua vitae, because the mingling of raisins, fennel-seed, and other things mitigating the heat, and making the taste pleasant, makes it less inflame, and yet refresh the weak stomach with moderate heat and a good relish. These drinks the English-Irish drink largely, and in many families (especially at feasts) both men and women use excess therein.”

On the living habits of Ireland’s poor…
“I trust no man expects among these gallants any beds, much less feather beds and sheets, who like the nomads removing their dwellings, according to the commodity of pastures for their cows, sleep under the canopy of heaven, or in a poor house of clay, or in a cabin made of the boughs of trees, and covered with turf, for such are the dwellings of the very lords among them. And in such places they make a fire in the midst of the room, and round about it they sleep upon the ground, without straw or other thing under them, lying all in a circle about the fire.”

A Cambridge graduate, Moryson died in 1630. The Retrospective Review says of his works: "We speak advisedly and within bounds when we assert that Fynes Moryson's work need not dread a comparison with any other book of travels, so far as amusing and instructive details regarding manners and the state of society are concerned."

Source UCC.ie

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16 Comments

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Trust IC to 'illustrate' this article with a depiction of an event that occured 250 years later. They should consider renaming this site ' IrishFamineCentral '.
I like "usquebagh!" It sounds like, even back in 1600, it's superiority was recognised by natives and foreigners alike. I learned, as a young man, that my morning's after were much less painful than with other spirits. As a old man, I have learned my limits and have found that moderation (but not abstinance)makes my mornings even better. Bushmills touts its original grant of 1608 and Jameson its establishment in 1780. I wonder how much what I now enjoy has changed from what Fynes Moryson tried in his four years spent in Ireland. Hey, that means he spent a THIRD of his twelve years traveling and writing his travelog IN IRELAND! I wonder if it could have been the usquebagh that kept him hanging on?
WKnee. Good point.
Shows the difference between the English in Ireland and the Spanish in the New World. Lots of Spanish tried to learn Indian languages, even they published grammar books of things like Quechua. But the English never showed the slightest interest in Irish culture. This guy Moryson wouldn't have bothered trying to learn two words of Irish. He was in modern terms a racist.
Bohmerland is Bohemia, a provinve located in today's Czech Republic.
A pan fried roo fillet and a bottle of Grange hemitage 1991 what a dream meal.
He also included his impression of "... a lande downe under wheare they be of ignorant convicte stock where they do like, for sustenance, mainly to partake of kannagarooes..."
Typical rantings of an ignorant prat.
More self loathing from Irish Central.
Christ, usual crap from the Irish Central natives, taking umbrage from a 17th century work. Words fail me how some people can leverage what is a mildly interesting, though biased, account of 17th century Ireland for some political capital.
You can find almost the exact same descriptions of Native Americans by early English colonists. Indeed the English developed their whole colonial strategy from what they learned in treating with the Irish Tribes. Import some foreigners of low status, give them privilege above the natives, and allow them to take the heat for the decisions of the masters. Protestants to Ireland, Indians to Africa Ect.
English propagandist libels Ireland. Plus ca change...
Where can I get a copy of Moryson's Travel Stories? Where is Bohmerland? The English had terrible dwellings too made of straw and daub with dirt floors and no windows. Did Moryson run into prostitutes on his visit to Ireland - I understand the prostitutes would hide in the bushes near the roads leading to the Dublin barracks.
A report from the 17th century. Why have you found it necessary to include a depiction of the 19th century Famine?
Pity it wasn't an Oxford man writing an account. I dare say that at least we would have gotten a ripping yarn out the thing rather than this Cambridge bloke's bile.




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