American in Ireland
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An American in Ireland (& anywhere else he goes)
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Blown away by the north coast
As I mentioned yesterday, we were up north last week. Just a day trip, which is possible now thanks to the vast improvement in the roads here. There was a time not that far back when a day trip to the north was such a bone-shaking, nerve-shattering experience that advertisements in the national papers advised people against making journeys of over 150 miles in length, such was the state of the roads. That lasted right up until, well, the current decade.
The roads are better, but there is still nowhere to stop for a bathroom break along the whole route except the Outlet in Banbridge. The clever folks who run the Outlet lure in the unsuspecting motorist from the south with clean bathrooms and two choices of coffee and then mesmerize them with shop-loads of cheap goods. Before they know what's hit them their wallets are empty and they're loaded down like pack mules and searching for their car in an over-flowing parking lot. The spell's only broken after they've forced down the lid of the trunk and have started the engine. When we finally escaped the clutches of the Outlet we made our way north to the Antrim coast to fulfil a two-year-old promise to our youngest to bring him to the Giant's Causeway. {Cursed teachers and their continued insistence on educating the young. Don't they know us parents would rather plop them in front of the t.v. and let it be at that?}  I've been there four or five times before, but in all prior trips I was able to plan around the weather forecast. This time the promise of the trip was made so far enough in advance (two days) that there was plenty of time for the forecast mild sun to be replaced by cloudbursts and gale-force winds. It wasn't actually all that bad when we finally got there, but it was very gloomy and very windy.  We stopped first at Bushmills distillery for no good reason other than it was there. It's not like anyone in the house drinks whiskey, although I came away with a sampler. Then we made our way to Dunluce Castle. Every time I'm at Dunluce all I can think is, "Who on Earth would build a residence there?" Last week in the gloom and wind and threat of rain it was even more striking how inhospitable the location is. From Dunluce it's only a short hop to the Giant's Causeway. I've gone through two completely different reactions to the Causeway: on my first visit I couldn't get over how odd the geological formations were. On my second and third trips I coudln't get over how many people made the trip to see what are, after all, not much more than oddly shaped rocks. Now I just appreciate it for what it is: interesting, peaceful and beautiful, although not breathtakingly so as are other parts of the north coast. Worth visiting. And, given the numbers of people who were there on the day we were there, bad weather and all, many people agree.
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The cost and time is about the same and I find myself flip flopping between the two- the Cliffs of Mohr likely will have better weather west coast vs. the north however the Giant's Causeway allows me to travel into Northern Ireland. LOL, I guess it's a nice decision to have to make either way.
But rush it you should Aj, both the G's Causeway and the Cliffs of Moher (note the correct spelling, lest your tour guidebooks mislead you) are both worth a visit. And you can travel from one to the other within a good few hours driving, although an overnight stay in one of the places after travel would be needy. If time really didn't allow, I would recommend the Cliffs as the choice. The roaring Atlantic sea at the base of the high cliffs is something to behold and listen to, esp in March. At least there, if you jump up high enough, you can see the coast of Amerikay. At the Causeway, it’ll be bonnie Sco’land you’d see. *L*.
BTW, the weather in Ireland in March is totally unpredictable – could be glorious sunshine with a slight chill, or could be gale force winds and sleeting rain - in either Dublin, or at the Causeway or at the Moher cliffs. Ya never know. Have a great holiday anyway Aj. Even if ya spend it beside a turf fire with a pint (more likely a whiskey!) in your hand!
Jacer I fully understand and appreciate the weather in Ireland in March but it's the best time for me to travel and the cost vs. travel in the summer months cannot be beat- LOL, I almost feel like I am stealing from the airlines and the hotel for this trip ;)
If it rains the entire time then I can say I've been rained on in Ireland for days on end- should you be in Dublin the week of St. Pats and it's pouring rain and you see someone out in it wearing shorts and an ear to ear grin it'll be me I assure you!
O’Donoghue’s pub in Merrion Row in Dublin is one of the noisiest pubs in Ireland on St. Patrick’s Day, great for traditional music, pints and craic. But just off O’Connell St in Dublin’s city centre, there’s another very nice pub in Cathedral Street, called The Goal Post. It’s the only pub in the short street that leads to Dublin’s Pro-Cathedral, opposite the only shop in Dublin that sells priests’ garments etc.).
I haven’t dropped in there in ages but it used to have a reputation for being the quietest pub in Ireland because it was (maybe still is, esp upstairs) the social gathering place of Dublin’s deaf community - all the chat, laughter and craic was by means of sign language. In this pub, there was no point in having piped background music.
But on St. Patrick’s Day, after the Parade, it would be full of ear-to-ear grinning USA bagpipe bandsmen, all still wearing their kilts. It was jokingly said to be the only place where you would find a pint of Guinness above a kilt. The quietest pub in Ireland became known as the pub where the noisiest loud-mouthed Americans gathered on St. Patrick’s Day *S*
BTW Aj – given yr tight schedule for the St. Pat’s Day week in Irl, may I offer a wee bit more advice – The Cliffs of Moher are about 5-6 hours driving from Dublin, the G’s Causeway about 3-4 hours. Allowing for lots of time in either place (min 2-3hrs), you’d have to think about the return trip. So you’d need to plan for overnight B&B stay (Bed & Breakfast rest up) in either place.
BTW2 - Nobody can plan the weather. The Yank will tell you that too.
I always advise people to check the weather as late as possible before making up their minds on a trip like you're planning. And, don't be fooled by the distances. Driving 180 miles each way in Azizona is a dawdle, but here it's exhausting. Especially if it's a wet day.
After the weather, consider the roads. I don't know the distances, but in my mind the Cliffs of Moher are much, much further than the Causeway. I wouldn't attempt a round trip in one day to the Cliffs. The road between Dublin and the Giant's Causeway is pretty good. Can be (unhappily) exciting once you get across the border where there's a stretch of deadly, but fast-moving roadway. Then it's mostly highway through Belfast to within 25 mins of the Causeway.
As for what you get at either place, well I prefer the Cliffs, but my wife prefers the Causeway. She likes being able to walk right down into the sea. At the Cliffs you're sort of penned in, although the view is spectacular.
Hope all that helps.
I am looking at a train/slash motor coach day trip for both the cliffs of Moher and the G causeway- rather not have to "adjust" to the whole driving on the wrong side of the road bit and if you are not driving you can pay more attention to the scenery etc. Both depart between 7 and 8am and return between 8-9pm - kills the day but leaves plenty of time for a bit of the night life as well particularly if you catch a bit of a nap on the trip back.
I honestly am not the least bit concerned about the weather because it's beyond my control and it only "ruins" things if that's the attitude you choose to take about it. Now if I was heading over to do a bit of golfing I might be concerned but I'll make do just fine with whatever the good Lord throws at me that week.
LOL, and you've pretty much guaranteed I'll need to be droppng by the Goal Post at least for a look see and pint but O’Donoghue’s sounds far more interesting for a traveler- I wonder how many pubs a fellow can hit in one day?
It does- and as I stated above I'd not even consider driving it myself. I think if one was going to do a bit of traveling by car they'd want to sort of ease into it a bit- I'd not wish to drive possibly in poor weather at night in a country where I'd not be use to the whole driving on the left , LOL I have no idea to be a statistic in Irelands motor vehicle accident rate ;)
Ah, a bus trip. That's a different kettle of fish all together. At least you can relax and not worry about the driving.
You're right not to worry about the weather, but one big advantage to the Causeway is that can be enjoyed even in low cloud and rain. I don't think the same is true for the Cliffs as they are all about the view. If you can't see, then there ain't much point.
Having said that, the Cliffs are near my ancestral home and I should really be pushing you in that direction.
Yank is right about Irish roads – a fierce mixture of broad highways and narrow twisting country roads. If it’s your first visit to Ireland, I would not recommend driving your own hire-car to either of the G’way or Moher.
Another option for you would be to hire a taxi for the day, sharing the cost with fellow passengers... Let the driver do the driving while you enjoy the skeenery or sleep your Paddy’s Day head off.
The Temple Bar area is right beside the heart of Dublin City. The Goal Post pub is less than 10 mins walk. O’Donoghue’s pub is 20 mins walk (not recommended on St.Pat’s Day, go there on another of yr 5 days). But Temple Bar itself has loads of pubs & restaurants, some offering Irish Stew (recommended on cold days), some offering music – of traditional Irish kind and others. You’ll be not left wanting for craic in that very place.
The word ‘Bar’ of Temple Bar, btw, does not refer to ‘pub’. ‘Bar’ in old times meant a street where people sold goods off street carts. So Temple Bar was one of where old Dublin’s street traders worked. Moore Street, not far from Temple Bar, is the only place left where you will see this. Go there for curiosity’s sake and listen to the traders calling out their offers amidst the colours of fruit, vegetables and fish (a photographer’s delight). Molly Malone used to work out of Moore Street, wheeling her barrow of fruit & vegetables (you can see a statue of her at the bottom of Grafton Street, make sure to get yr photo taken beside it).