Salsa Verde: The Irish in Chile

Mark Axelrod explores Irish influences In Latin America.

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Bernardo O'Higgins, the son of Irish immigrants whose impact on Latin American politics remains today.

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One of the carabineros asked me if I drank wine and if I knew how good Chilean wine was. Of course, I knew something about Chilean wines and it actually was the carabinero who suggested that I visit some of the Chilean vineyards before I returned to the United States. It was a valid suggestion and even if it weren't I wasn't going to argue with a carabinero. But one of the things O’Higgins would never have imagined (even though he must have known of, if not tasted, Guinness) was what the future held for Chilean wines. Chilean vineyards have sprouted all over the country from San Felipe – north of Santiago – to the Valle de Malleco – south of Los Angeles – and due south of Concepción lies the Valle Bio Bio where O’Higgins’ estate would have been. Certainly, at another time his hacienda could have been the focal point of his own vineyard since the Bio Bio Valley's southern latitude is perfect for the Pais, the grapes the Spaniards introduced into Chile in the 16th century and which are still the most planted grapes there even though Chardonnay, Riesling, and Gewurztraminer are also grown in the vineyards of the Bio Bio. Who knows – perhaps had O’Higgins become a wine master, he might have been able to put together a challenge against Guinness.

But I digress. Although I never had time to visit those vineyards around O’Higgins’ land, I did have time to return to the Parque O’Higgins the next day. Its history is very interesting. In 1870, the old “Fields of Mars” were restored by order of Louis Cousiño who, a decade earlier, had the vision of importing French vines with the objective of producing outstanding Chilean wines which today are produced under the label Cousiño-Macul, one of the leading wineries in Chile. Cousiño Park was officially opened in 1873 and remained Cousiño Park for a century until it was renamed Parque O’Higgins in 1972. The park annually becomes the center of activities of the Fiestas Patrias Chile during which time dozens of booths are opened serving various national cuisines and offering places to dance. In addition, every September 19th, a military parade is presented in Esplanade Park, adjacent to the University Bernardo O’Higgins, at which time thousands of spectators as well as distinguished political figures are in attendance. The park itself is a kind of urban retreat and, especially in autumn, has a colorful splendor that would have made O’Higgins himself proud.

But Cousiño-Macul isn’t the only wine associated with O’Higgins. Enter John MacKenna (or Seán Mac Cionath in Gaelic) born in Clogher, Co. Tyrone, the son of William MacKenna and Eleanor O’Reilly and, on his mother’s side, a nephew to Count Alejandro O’Reilly. In October 1796, Juan MacKenna left Spain for South America: first Buenos Aires, then Mendoza, then Chile and, finally, Peru. Once in Lima, he contacted Bernardo’s father, then Viceroy of Peru, who named him Governor of Osorno and put him in charge of the reconstruction works for that southern Chilean town. Both Irishmen were loyal to Spain, though Juan MacKenna had good relations with Bernardo and was instrumental in allying himself with O’Higgins during the Chilean War of Independence. For his heroism, MacKenna was named Commandant General in the Chilean army. Today, that heroism is commemorated by the production of The McKenna Collection of Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon produced by Viña Undurraga. So on your next trip to Chile, just remember that every sip of Undurraga or Macul is not only a sip for the Chileans, but for the Irish as well.

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