A Winter Honeymoon

April Drew married John Mooney on Saturday, December 5, 2009 in Killarney, Co. Kerry. The New York couple discovered that a honeymoon in Ireland in mid-winter warmed the heart, offered spectacular scenery, luxurious hotels, and some suprises.

Ashford, nestled in the heart of County Mayo, is surrounded by gardens and forests and accessed by an authentic drawbridge that pulls you back into the 1200s when the castle was built. It was here, and in the nearby village of Cong, that the John Ford classic The Quiet Man (1951) starring John Wayne and Maureen O’Hara, was filmed. The setting and grounds are absolutely breathtaking. After lingering in our room, which overlooked the gardens and lakes and exuded romance, we took a drive down to Cong. It was worth the trip on a cold December’s evening. Quaint shops and restaurants hug the main street and locals are ever so friendly. We had dinner in a local restaurant, a lovely conversation with a couple from Virginia, and to round out the evening, back in the hotel, we sat with a house bottle of wine and laughed and wept through a screening of The Quiet Man.

Up bright and early the next morning we were all set for our first lesson in Falconry. James, a fine English gentleman, took me under his wing (pardon the pun) and introduced me to Guirre, an eight-month-old Harris hawk. 

Guirre and I saw eye-to-eye immediately. He perched on my left arm, and within minutes he and I were setting off through the magnificent woodlands to a clearing where I released him to fly free. He soared gracefully, wings and feathers spread out, circled around and returned to perch once again on my arm. Beautiful.

Too soon, it was time to say goodbye to Ashford and Guirre and settle into the three-hour journey to Donegal.

The sun shone brightly on sparkling seas as we drove through small coastal towns, catching sight of parents and children strolling on beaches and elderly Irish folks taking dogs for walks and sipping tea at the side of the road as they embraced the winter sunshine, albeit wrapped up in woolly scarfs and hats.

By the time we arrived at our destination, dusk was falling and the shifting colors made the drive up to Lough Solis Eske Castle, just outside Donegal town, a rare treat.

An oversized four-poster bed, an elegant fireplace (original to the castle) and complimentary desserts provided a wonderful welcome after our long drive. After an exploring walk through the hotel, which oozes classic chic and sophistication throughout, we decided to visit Donegal town – a nifty place adorned with Christmas lights, restaurants, shops and bars. We ate at a place recommended to us by the hotel staff, then drove to Killybegs to visit friends. Elaine Boyle and her husband Dermot showed us around the small village, one of the few coastal towns in Ireland that has an abundance of fresh fish available on a daily basis.  Trawlers lined the marina and fishermen, settling down after a hard day’s work, ate heartily. It was a pleasure to be part of this hardworking community on our last evening in the West country.

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